Magic Turban Hat

MAGIC TURBAN HAT as edited by Elizabeth F. Stabler

This is a variation of the famous Plymouth turban hat pattern.

Hudas’ hat

Hat for Shawn Lockyear’s birthday.

Materials: Noro’s Kureyon (aran weight), Noro’s Silk Garden (listed as aran but knits as worsted in my experience) or Silk Garden Lite (dk). Lately I’ve been using the Silk Garden Lite with great success. Adjust number of repeats if necessary (see below). Any other yarn with long, long color repeats will do.

Equipment: Needles - #5 for Aran or worsted, #4 for dk; a couple of yards of thick cotton yarn for the provisional cast on; darning needle.

Pattern stitch: repeat of 8 rows: For 4 rows K1 one row/ P1 row then reverse for the 8-row rib.

The effect is achieved by decreasing at the beginning of the row and at the end of the same row – EVERY OTHER ROW for the entire work. Place a marker of some sort to remind you which row will be the dec / inc row. For a neater effect do the inc & dec one stitch from last stitch. The result is a rounded, slightly tighter edge at the increase end. I like to use that end for the top of the hat and the looser edge for rolling up.

Directions: Cast on 70 (Aran or worsted) or 77 (dk) using provisional cast on. [if you have enough yarn and would like to enlarge the rolled section, cast on 75-80 sts for #5 needles on worsted or Aran and 85-90 sts on #4 on dk]

P first row .

On next (K) row, begin the dec (SSK) / inc increasing (make one stitch by pulling up the yarn between the third to last and second to last stitch). Only work two rows before switching to the other ribbing stitch (stockingette or reverse purl). At the end of the work you will complete this 4-stitch section, allowing one row for the grafting. Don’t worry if this seems mysterious – it all becomes a “duh” when you get to the end.

Measure it around your head as you get to 13 or so repeats! Make up to 15 repeats of 8-row ribbing pattern, depending on size of head. When you are finished you will have a parallelogram and how it becomes a hat may seem mysterious. The solution is now to make a tube. Put the stitches from provisional cast on edge a needle, removing the cotton thread holding those live stitches as you put them on the needle. Hold the other needle parallel and using the kitchener stitch (which gives the hat a tidy seamlessness) graft the two edges. Hint: it doesn’t really matter but it’s easier if you start with the decrease edge first but it doesn’t always work out. This way you can use the tail to pull the stitches together at the increase (more rounded) edge to make the top of the hat.

Hint #2: Do count the stitches every now and again to make sure you have been increasing and decreasing consistently. You need to have the very same number at the end as you did at the beginning. I write from bitter experience!

Pomcho with Pompoms

Poncho With Pompoms

Materials

300-400 yds bulky weight yarn

Needles  #8 circular 32";   #8 dpn’s;  6-8  markers ; row counter if needed

Size 2-4 years old

Gauge

Finished Dimensions 24" across straight across bottom; 23 1/2" from edge of collar to center from.  Will fit a 2-4 year old.

Cast on 170 sts (bottom edge)  and connect, joining 1st and last stitch to ease the jog. 

Bottom Edge:  Rows 1-4  Make a four ridge garter band:* P 1 round, K 1round* repeat 3 times

1st section: begin the decreases

Round 1.  *Knit 2;  PM  (Note: PM becomes SM in all subsequent rows)  ;  k2tog; K 77 sts; SSK ; PM;  k4; PM; K2 tog; K 77 sts; SSK ; PM; K2.  The 2 sections with four stitches between markers are the center front and back of the poncho.

Round s 2-4: K.  Repeat markers these 4 rows until there are 126 sts.

 2nd Section  

Round 1 *Knit 2;  sm  ;  k2tog;  Knit to 2 sts before next marker;  SSK;  sm ; K2 * Repeat once till end of round. 

Rounds 2 & 3: K K 2 rounds.  Repeat these three rounds until there are 92 sts, You will be working on the neck opening while continuing the decreases until there are 92 sts.  

Front Center  Begin after the first decrease of 2^nd section (122 sts)

Round:  1 P 1; K to lst st: P_

Round 2 and all even rows through row 8: K

Round 3: Purl 2, K to last 3 sts: P

Round 7: Purl 4; K to last four sts: P.

Neck Opening

End of Circular knitting.  Switch to knitting back and forth while at the same time maintaining both the decreases and the 4 sts garter ridges at the neck opening.  For a tidy edge you may (optional) switch to the chain edge stitch at the beginning and end of the rows for the neck opening (see stitch glossary for directions).

When there are 92 sts, in the next purl row place markers after the 23rd and 69^th sts for the shoulder shaping.  You may find it helpful to use a different color or style of stitch marker from markers used for the shaping decreases.

 Shoulders Row 1: [RS] Decrease as usual at the neck and back edges. For the shoulder decreases, K to 2 sts before the 1st new marker and slip these two onto right needle, k next st and psso. Repeat before next marker. 

Row 2.  [WS] P

Repeast Rows 1 & w until there are 52 sts.  The work is now divided into 4 sections, each having the same number of odd  numbers of sts.  End with decrease right side k row.

 Neck Row 1: WS K

Row 2: RS make opening for i-cord -  k1 *k2, YO* to last 3 sts, K2tog, k1

K 4 rows, BO  knitwise.

Make 36" icord and lace through openings.  Make 2 1 1/2" pompoms and attach to end of icord after lacing it through the eyelets made by the YO’s.

 FINISHING  Sew in ends, wash and lay flat to shape and then give it to the lucky toddler/child

 Optional Hood   

Instead of BO, continue for a hood.  Maintain the neck opening garter st edging on both sides of the hood. 

Row 1: K 25 sts, PM; K 2; PM; K24.

Row 2( and all even rows) : K 4 sts; P to last four stitches; K4 sts

Row 3. K24 sts, Inc.1 st.; K2: Inc1 st.; K 24

Row: 5- K

Row 6: K 4 sts; P to last four stitches; K4 sts

Repeart Rows 3-6 until there are 66 sts.

 

­Glossary

BO - Bind off

Chain edge stitch : just before last stich on needle, bring yarn forward pick up the horizontal thread and put it on the right hand needle, slip the last st onto right hand needle, turn work and knit the last first st (formerly the last!) together with the loop.

DPN - double point needles

Inc. - Increase 1 st: Either KF& B ( knit a stitch into the front loop of stitch and then into the back loop of a stitch) or M1 (make a stitch by knitting into the strand just before the stitch, making sure to twist it so a hole does not result)

K -  knit

K2tog; put right hand needle into 2nd st from live end on left needle and knit the two together

P - purl

PM -  place marker

PSSO - Pass slipped stitches over the knitted st

RS Right Side

SM - slip marker

SSK - slip two sts knitwise, slip back onto left hand needle and knit both at the same time

St(s) - stitch(es)

WS - Wrong Side

YO - Yarn over     

     

Pink Beaded Lace Scarf

Yarn: Tilli Tomas Symphony Lace "Hope" (light pink)Lace / 2 ply

63% Mohair, 18% Nylon, 10% Silk, 9% Wool 345 yards/50 grams

Needles: #2.5-3
Pattern based on Artful Yarns "One Skein Portrait Scarf". Multiples of 7 +2
For a narrow scarf which will be about 5.5' cast on 58 sts. For a wider 4.5' scarf cast on 72 sts.
Row 1 start pattern: CE (don't start this edge stitch until the third row), K1 *Yo, K1, sl1 purlwise, K2tog, slip slipped stitch over the K2tog, K1, YO, K2* Repeat from *to* to last two stitches, Yo, Ki, CE(don't start this edge stitch until the third row).
Row 2 and every even row, CE, K until last stitch CE (don't start this edge stitch until the third row).


CE = chain edge (see previous posts)

Baby Crossover Coat...Again

I love this pattern -- I've been working on it and have the 6-9 month size worked out pretty well, I hope. On my first go-around this time I saw the sleeves had puckered and were very tight. I'd picked up the stitches at the shoulder very firmly, crossing the loops. Big mistake. So I took apart the sweater, frogged the sleeves and began again, picking up many fewer and making the sleeves longer.

Machine Knitting Is Not For Me

What a relief -- I've tried and decided not to pursue yet another fiber habit! Yayyyyy! Last weekend I took a lovely, well-run and presented workshop "Introduction to Machine Knitting" at Peters Valley Craft Center, my favorite fiber learning center. Frances Collier did a lovely job of teaching us how to use no-longer manufactured Brother machines. As invited to, I'd brought my own machine, purchased a couple of summers ago at the North Country Spinners Sell & Swap Day. I bought it from a most reliable friend. But, I'd never used it.
My father, always entranced by any machine that made things, had bought a machine at the PX when I was little. I'd learned to use it but didn't really know what to make with it. In those days I didn't have a stash, for one thing. So I was intrigued to try again.
By noon of the first day of the workshop I knew I was going to leave my machine with one of the young fiber artists also taking the class!
It just isn't my cup of tea. The repetitive, noisy motion would interfere with any audiobook enjoyment and perhaps cause injury? And I don't like the fabric -- it looks like something I'd buy in Walmart, if I ever did buy anything there. Even after Fran felted some of our stuff, I knew I would never use it. And, I love the extra room in the house now that it's gone! It was about 40" wide and had all its parts except the metal hook attaching the ribbing element to the knitting handle whoosie thing. It was a really good experience, actually, to cross something off the list!

Grandmother's Delight

In April 2009 I finished an EZ Baby Surprise Jacket for my grandson [the post is at http://lizasfibers.blogspot.com/2009/04/ezs-baby-surprise-jacket.html]. The next fall [see post http://lizasfibers.blogspot.com/2009/11/ez-baby-surprise-altered-and-mittens-to.html] I lengthened the sleeves as my grandson was growing out of it and the short sleeves of this design weren't working for him. The only comment from the recipient's mother at the time was a lesson on how to use color better when knitting. And yesterday the recipient's father advised me on the errors I had made knitting the buttonholes; his fingers had trouble getting the [adorable vehicular] novelty buttons through without catching the yarn.

To my eternal delight yesterday I learned that until very recently said grandson had adored this sweater. Despite his parents' protestations he insisted on wearing it and until the last possible moment. I could tell 'cause the last button hole was pulled out of shape and he's not in the tubby department.

My grandson has a new baby sister thus the sweater will shortly have a new wearer. So Granny nabbed the sweater, assured the mother she didn't care if it needed washing and took it home to work on. We will look for big round buttons to make it easier for granddaughter's dad's big fingers to button it on her. And, I will put the charming vehicular buttons on a new sweater for my grandson. (See the first link for a view of the buttons or my Ravelry page.)

I sit here grinning in the knowledge -- two years after I finished it -- that the little person I made the jacket for loved it. It's all worth it.

P.S. My D.B. had no problem maneuvering the buttons in and out of the button holes as neither did I. Just checking....

Ribbed Ear Warmer

Materials: 1/3 - 1/2 skein of Noro Silk Garden
#5 needles 16" circular
For Adult Small, very loosely cast on 71 sts.
When joining the end of the first row to the beginning, being very careful not to twist the row, knit together the first and last stitches to help ease the jog.
*Purl 4 rounds, knit 4 rounds* 4 times, purl 3 rows and bind off loosely. (Knit on the reverse side if you don't like to purl.)
Sew in ends. If either the cast off or the cast on edge is slightly tighter that's okay -- the tighter edge will be the top of the ear warmer, farthest from the fast.
The right side has five purl ridges. For larger or smaller sizes, add or subtract sts but maintain the same number of rows/ridges. This is nice and stretchy and is quite flattering. And, thank you to my kind model!